Azepur99® - High purity cosmetic grade of 100% biobased azelaic acid, obtained from high refined Sunflower oil of European origin, COSMOS approved.

Today several grades of azelaic acid are available in the market, some of them are derived from animal sources some other from vegetable sources. Azeco Cosmeceuticals has developed and placed on the market an ultra-pure, micronised cosmetic grade of azelaic acid with vegetable origin, COSMOS approved.

Introduction: -

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring straight-chained saturated dicarboxylic acid naturally present in rye, wheat, and barley. A single mechanism of action has not been identified to explain the several beneficial effects of azelaic acid on the skin. In fact, it is well known in the art, from the results of several accurate experimental scientific works, topical azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, in addition to comedolytic action. It also competitively inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the conversion of tyrosine to melanin, and may reduce epidermal hyperkeratinization. So Azepur99® is an antibacterial and anti-proliferative agent that can be used to treat skin by reducing the growth of bacteria in the follicle, rebalancing keratinization It has applications in anti-aging formulation, hair growth stimulation, hyper-pigmentation reduction products.

How Azepur99® works on skin:

When used in cosmetic formulations, azelaic acid penetrates the skin effectively and stimulates cellular activity. Azelaic acid is able to assist in normalisation of the microflora on the skin. Organisms that have become opportunistic are normalised to their normal level, including propionibacterium acnes, and it thus assists in many cases in clearing and preventing acne. The mode of action has not been fully elucidated, but in numerous preclinical and clinical studies it has been demonstrated that azelaic acid displays three main beneficial properties on impure skin:

  • It normalizes the disturbed follicular keratinization that leads to the formation of comedones. The reduction in the count of comedones has subsequently been demonstrated in various clinical studies.
  • Azelaic acid has a significant antibacterial effect on the follicular propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis (in vitro). This effect is primarily bactericidal but may in vivo be modified to a bacteriostatic one.
  • In addition azelaic acid also reveals direct anti-inflammatory activities by reducing the production and release of reactive oxygen species.

It is also an effective inhibitor of tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. So Azepur99®, according to its high purity characteristic and natural origin, can be safely used in brightening/lightening cosmetic products both for Asian and Caucasian skin. The competitive inhibition of tyrosinase by Azepur99® (see the scheme below) results in a decreased

production of melanin.

Then Azepur99® is a natural skin bleaching agent and an effective lightener for the skin. It has the advantage of giving a paler skin, naturally.

In Vitro Studies:

  • A composition with 10% Azepur99® was tested on Volunteers for 30 days with twice application a day.
  • Results are promising to regard Azepur99® as a multifunctional ingredient for the management of skin disorders like infected closed comedones & acne.

This grade of azelaic acid is the ideal active ingredient for a variety of personal care products (also COSMOS / ECOCERT approved), providing not only lightening / brightening action but all together important benefits. Here’s a brief overview:



Effective in the treatment of oily and impure skin

Moisturizing skin creams, serum and lotions,

cleansers and toners. Men’s skin care products.

Provides a progressive lightening / brightening effect for a more uniform complexion


Moisturizing skin creams, serum and lotions, cleansers and toners. Men’s skin care products.

Reduces skin pigmentation and color irregularities such as age spots, revealing smoother, brighter, more supple skin with fewer irregularities


Creams, serums, lotions, cleansers, and toners designed to reduce the

signs of aging. Whitening products, skin peeling products. Men’s skin care products (also after- shaving products).


Improving the appearance of sun damaged skin and fighting skin aging


Moisturizing skin creams, serum and lotions, Moisturizing skin creams, serum and lotions. Men’s skin care products.

Enhancing performance of certain topical over-the- counter, drugs or quasi-drugs and prescription products


Acne treatment combinations, skin lightening / whitening combinations, sunscreen combinations. Men’s skin care products.

Applications of Azelaic Acid:

Skin care applications of azelaic acid cover major skin care areas that represent highly significant market areas:

  • Anti-acne,
  • Anti-rosacea,
  • Skin-lightening,
  • Hair-growth & regrowth.


So azelaic acid seems very reliable for lightening the complexion, and we feel it’s a great alternative to other types of skin lighteners, here’s why:

  • First and foremost, it’s much safer of the main part of the available alternative products;
  • It’s ability to lighten complexion is also thanks to anti-inflammatory and successful ability in treating various forms of acne. Two advantages in one active ingredient.
  • It’s safe for all skin complexions, especially those with a deeper and darker skin tone.
  • It’s effective in bringing life back into dull and aged skin by brightening and evening out the tone of your skin.
  • Unlike hydroquinone, azelaic acid does not affect the pigments of the skin, but rather tackles abnormal melanocytes (small melanin cells) instead.

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