The following Q&A, conducted by Jen Novakovich (Founder, The Ecowell) with Krishna Sarvaiya (Vice President, Salicylates and Chemicals), contains a wealth of insights into current trends in the sunscreen industry
Sunscreens can be some of the most challenging products to bring to market. Right off the bat, they are harder to formulate and come with a litany of hurdles and extra steps. From regulatory nuances to regional classification. Even when you’ve reached the end of the development journey, the market doesn’t stand still. Public perception shapes ingredient trends and your perfect product today may not meet the market’s expectations tomorrow. Sunscreens cover the entire gamut of product development challenges. To try and help cut through the noise, I’m joined by Salicylates and Chemicals (S&C) who see opportunity in the challenges presented by the sun care space. This article features a Q&A with S&C to unpack challenges and opportunities in sunscreen product development.
From the brand point of view, what are some of the most common concerns when selecting UV filters?
S&C: Every few months there are new regulations on UV filters which are resulting in limited uses of sunscreens – this is causing several formulation issues. As an example, in the U.S. market there is a comparatively short list of approved UV filters to begin with. To add complexity, there are also state specific bans being put forward that would shorten this list further due to perceptions around reef safety. Even within one country, formulations may not be nationally compliant. As a consequence, you need to follow regulations in each country where your sunscreen is sold. Ultimately, you cannot make one sunscreen that can be marketed globally.
Then where does this regulatory desire originate? Public perception around sunscreen safety seems to be up for debate. What effects are you seeing from this increased attention?
S&C: Regulations have increased scrutiny on the safety of UV filters and more brands are looking at replacing traditional UV filters such as Octocrylene, Octyl Methoxycinnamate and Benzophenone 3. The U.S. market, where no new UV filter has been authorized for decades, has the strongest restrictions when it comes to UV filter selection. This creates a challenge for formulation, especially with the regulated dosage for Homosalates, a widely used UV filter. It is impossible to create sun care formulations that can be introduced to the worldwide market without regional adaptation to the diverse preferences of the end users. Many brands have turned to inorganic filters, Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, using higher percentage inputs to achieve the desired UV protection. However, these formulations often leave a white cast which will impact consumer satisfaction and usage. This is particularly true for darker skin tones.
So, suffice to say, sunscreen formulations are challenging. From the different palettes of UV filters available regionally to formulation stability. Counterintuitively, many UV filters are not UV stable, while others require specific manufacturing methods to adequately disperse the sunscreen actives through the formulation.
S&C: Formulators should also consider UV filter and formulation synergy to give improved SPF and PA values. This can be achieved by the right selection of organic/inorganic and, in some cases, herbal actives in the formulation.
Keeping on top of trends is important for any brand. What are some of the trends that brands and formulators should be aware of in the sun care space?
S&C: With the rise of derm and skin influencers highlighting the benefits of sun protection, one sun care trend is the push for sunscreens as part of the daily routine. We are also seeing various applications gain traction, such as lip and scalp-based sunscreen formulations. Brands are experimenting with different formats/textures (e.g., patches, sticks, powders) to meet the interest in convenient sunscreen and help people expand their sun protection repertoire. Additionally, there is a focus on the minimal use of sunscreen actives but with maximum protection, taking advantage of novel and efficient delivery systems. Consumers are expecting more out of their sunscreens beyond sun protection, from additional skincare benefits to protection from pollution and smoke. Finally, there is a growing trend of herbal extracts and natural materials in sun care. Over the last few years, a significant increase of the usage of herbal extracts has been registered, given the growing consumer interest in “natural” ingredients in the finished product.
Given the challenging nature of the sunscreen industry, what are some suggestions for brands as they think about new product development?
S&C: Focus on using new age sunscreens such as Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid (SALISOL HS), Ethylhexyl Triazone (SALISOL EHT), etc. which have proven efficacy studies and are easy to formulate. Try to consider formulations which can be used daily by consumers for regular application, make serum or gel-based formulations since they don’t have the typical white cast which makes everyday usage a problem. Sun care brands can appeal to consumers by continuing to blur with skincare. Recent launches use serum textures and an array of skincare ingredients (e.g., prebiotics, tulip complex). A long-term challenge which brands will face will be finding a right balance between cost and performance and it will lead to interesting concepts around designing future formulations for the masses.
How is Salicylates helping brands overcome these challenges?
S&C: To help meet these challenges and trends, Salicylates has launched several new ingredients in our sunscreen portfolio. This includes UVA/UVB broad spectrum filters, Bemotrizanol (SALISOL BMZ), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (SALISOL DHHB), and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone (SALISOL HEB). These are powder based and easy to formulate with while achieving broad-spectrum protection. We are also currently working on the development of sunscreen blends with higher SPF which can be manipulated to give a different SPF, merely by dilution with the right ingredient. Salicylates is also looking at a new herbal extract with potential UV filter properties.